Redo Renew Recycle - Home Decorating On a Budget

If you are anything like me, your closet looks like a bomb went off inside! No matter how often I clear out the clutter, there just isn’t enough space to put my things – unless, of course, I get rid of my shoes and clothes! So this year, I decided I would get organized.

Now, you could purchase one of those closet organizers from your local hardware or Home Depot stores, or you could do-it-yourself by adding a few shelves. For this post, that is what we are going to do!

After deciding exactly how you want your closet to look, purchase or cut your shelves to the appropriate size and set aside.

Next, you need to find and mark the studs. The smart way to do this is by using a stud finder (available at your local hardware store.) I must admit that since using this little device, hanging my pictures and shelves has gotten a whole lot easier! Once you find them, mark their location with a pencil for the bracket installation. (Studs usually have a spacing of 16 inches to 24 inches.)

In order to seat the shelves flush to the wall, you need to mark and cut out a groove in the back of the shelf equal to the depth and width of the brackets. You can use a tenon saw and chisel to accomplish this, testing the bracket to insure a flush fit with the back of the shelf. Once this is done, screw the brackets to the shelves.

Apply a thin layer of white glue to the front of the shelves, then fix a facing (approximately an inch wider than the shelf) to the edge. Use finishing nails to secure the fit – approximately 12 inches apart, making sure to center the facing so it protrudes an equal distance on the top and bottom. Repeat this step with all the shelves.

Finish the shelves according to your taste. You can countersink the nailheads and fill them for a smooth finish, sand and paint, or stain, then let dry for a couple of hours before installing them.

Make sure to use a level when you mark the area for the brackets. Pre-drill the holes and use the appropriate plugs (if necessary for plaster and masonary walls.)

One final tip – if any of your shelves butt against the front sides of your closet, you might have trouble opening and closing the doors depending on the door style. To insure smooth operation, cut a triangular piece off the end of the shelf or shelves in question. Finish accordingly.

One of the simplest additions to your walls can make the difference between dull or boring and stylish and welcoming.

I’m talking about Crown Moldings. These are a wonderfully elegant addition to any room that can add style and flair, as well as having the one thing do-it-yourself-ers can rely on – hiding those little imperfections. Crown molding can be used at the top of a room to add definition to a ceiling, or through the middle of your walls to brighten the look of the room.

These simple instructions can help you give your walls that final touch that speaks of a well thought out and decorated home.

You will need ¾ inch strips of plywood for backing – the molding should fit over the backing without anything showing. After marking the ceiling joists, or if doing the middle of the room, the wall studs, attach the plywood to the wall with screws, leaving a gap at each corner so the molding will ‘clear’ the backing. Using a scrap of molding as a template, mark the room where the bottom edge of the molding will sit on the walls. (If you don’t have a stud finder, simply use a finishing nail, and make holes along the molding line until you find a stud. Each stud should be 16-inches apart.)

Paint or stain the molding, and allow time for drying before installing.

Cut the first piece to the length of the longest wall, making a square cut, and install it with screws or finishing nails, making sure they penetrate the backing. (For longer walls, you might need two strips of molding. Join them in the middle with a 45-degree compound miter. If you find the ceiling is not flat you will need to caulk the gaps.)

To fit the next piece of trim to the first, you need to make a ‘coped joint’ for a snug fit. You do this by cutting the molding at a 45-degree angle, making 60-degree angle back cuts on the cut edges with a coping saw. Use a utility knife to fine-tune the fit.

The outside corners need to be ‘compound mitered’ so that it slopes toward the corner. It might be easier to cut a sample first, in order to adjust the fit, and then cut the molding to fit. Cross-nail the molding to the walls and ceiling with your finishing nails. (Tip: cut the outside miters a bit longer and time them to fit.)

Make sure, when you are measuring, to allow for cutting waste. To do this, simply add 2 or 3 inches to your measurement, and round up to the next highest length of molding. For instance, if you have a 5-foot, 6-inch wall, you will need to purchase a 6-foot length of molding. If possible, try and purchase a single piece of molding for each side of the room you are doing. This cuts down on waste, time, and patience!

Now let’s take a look at how to hang wallpaper. Ideally, it’s a two person job, however it can be managed by yourself. I have been brave enough to try it on my own, and while I have managed very capably, it still would have been easier with a partner.

Always start your first seam in a corner or a doorway. Measure ½ an inch less than the actual width of the wallpaper, and make a mark. Using a level and a plumb bob, draw a vertical line from this point to the ceiling and floor. Measure the height of the wall, and place the desired pattern of the wallpaper at the ceiling line, cutting a strip that is four inches longer than the wall.

There are two main ways to hang the paper…

One – Re-roll the strip of wallpaper, glue side out, and slide it through a water tray (these are available at most retail stores that offer paper) feed the paper under the bar, and as it soaks, guide it up the wall to where you have placed your mark, making sure to overlap the ceiling by approximately 2 inches. Take care to align your paper with the mark and not the corner or door frame.

Using a damp sponge, smooth the bubbles out of the paper, starting in the middle, and working towards the edges. This method works well if you only have one person working.

Two – Re-roll the strip of wallpaper, glue side out, and soak it very briefly in the water tray. (There are timed instructions with the wallpaper.) Now pull the strip face down onto a table. Fold the top two thirds over itself, paste side in and the bottom third over itself. Be very careful not to crease the paper.

Unfold the top of the strip and smooth it in place, again, making sure to overlap the ceiling by approximately 2 inches. Keep the paper aligned with your mark and not the door frame or corner. Next, open and smooth the bottom fold of paper. Use a damp sponge to smooth out the air bubbles, starting from the center of the paper and working towards the edges.

Very carefully, trim the top and bottom edges of the strip with a sharp knife – the sharper the better, as wet paper doesn’t cut well at all. Take your time to avoid the paper bunching or ripping. Do the same with windows and door moldings.

Repeat these steps (either the first or second methods) with the next strip, and slide it into place beside the first, carefully matching the patterns, edges touching, but not overlapping. After a few minutes, flatten the edges carefully with a roller. If you press too hard, you might squeeze the glue out and the edges won’t stick.

When you have finished covering the walls, recycle the paper and use it to recover waste paper baskets, lampshades, or picture frames. Redo window shades to match the walls, and add accents to bookshelves, books or photo albums.